How to Make | Resin Cutting Board

Learn how to make an AMAZING “Ocean Cutting Board” using reclaimed wood and Epoxy Resin! Here are the Step-by-step instructions and a video tutorial… are you READY? You GOT this!

Before we get started, don’t forget to follow me on Instagram, YouTube, and FaceBook to stay up to date with my tutorials, videos, and custom builds!

Material List

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STEP 1: Choose Wood Type – (Reclaimed White Oak)

When making cutting boards I recommend using any hardwood, such as Oak, Ash, Hickory, Walnut, etc. In this tutorial, I’m using Reclaimed White Oak. White Oak has a ton of character and charm; not to mention Oak is SUPER hard and can take a beating!

STEP 2: Cut the wood to size

The Oak board that I’m using is nearly 16 feet long… WOW! Thats huge and HEAVY, but we only need 24″… so lets measure out 24 inches and cut it.

I love using my Ridgid Miter Saw, it has a 12 inch blade and a cutting capacity of nearly 16″ with the sliding arm mechanism.

Watch Full Length Video here!

STEP 3: Plane the Board

Planing wood can be slightly tough as it requires a bunch of back and forth work… not to mention it’s LOUD, lol! Always be sure to use ear protection. Lets begin with running the board through the planer several passes until one achieves the desired thickness. I’m planing until I reach 7/8” thickness. Once the board is flat than you’re ready for the next step!

Here is what the board looks like flat and all the rough grain has been removed.

NOW… you can see all the character and charm in the White Oak!

STEP 4: Choose the shape of the Cutting Board

Since I make a ton of cutting boards for my business; I use TEMPLATES to make sure all my shapes and sizes are the same. Using templates makes the process super efficient.

In the photo above, you can see that I have pulled out two of best selling cutting board templates… and I decided to go with my Charcuterie Irregular shape template.

Interested in my cutting board TEMPLATE? Click this link

STEP 5: Trace the TEMPLATE onto the work piece

Let’s trace the template using a carpenters crayon 👍 I like using the carpenters crayon for two reasons… the marks are easily removed and it provides the perfect 1/8” line, which is what I want for the next step.


I’m using my bandsaw to cut out the cutting board, but you can do this with a jig saw as well… if you’re going to use a jug saw than I recommend the Dewalt Jig Saw as it’s affordable and cuts true.


There a few different methods for sticking the template back onto the work piece but I prefer using double-sided tape. Place the tape in several sections as we’re getting ready to use the router table and we don’t want to template to move.

After attaching the template, the board should be about 1/8” larger all around the perimeter… should look like this 👇

STEP 8: Trim the excess meat off the cutting board with router table

Left: 1/2” Round Over bit | Right: 1” Flush Trim Bit

Okay… time to trim the board. Place the board onto the router table and align the flush trim bit bearing to where it rolls along the template. Doing this will allow the cutter portion of the bit to trim the excess off and the result will match the template exactly 👍

You can also use a cordless router for this technique! I recommend the Ridgid Cordless 18volt Router. I use this one in my shop regularly and enjoy it.

STEP 9: Remove the template

STEP 10: Use the router table and 1/2” round over bit

STEP 10: Sand the cutting board

Starting with 80 grit sandpaper and stepping up the grits using. 100, 120, 180, 220 and ending with 320.

Sanding can be therapeutic for some, but not for me, 😂 so I use Mira sandpaper and my Dewalt Power Sander… it’s done quickly and with high quality! That’s a win win for me! 😉

STEP 12: Setup for the Resin Pour

Finally we made it to the FUN part 😂

I’m using Total Boat Epoxy Resin with a 1:1 mixing ratio. It’s easy to work with and provides an amazing finished look!

Lets mix 3 ounces of resin and 3 ounces of hardener into one cup… mix for a minute… slowly… no rush needed. Use a stir stick.

After mixing the Resin and Hardener together then place 4 little clear cups on the table and pour the mixed Resin into each cup – equal amounts. These cups will be for each color that were going to mix.

STEP 13: Mix Pigment Powders

Image above shows the three colors that we will be using… keep in mind that these colors represent the ocean colors where we live in Destin, Florida… other oceans may have different color tones.

Pigment Powder Colors are: mix 1/2 teaspoon of each powder into each little cup.

Black Diamond Pigment: Pure Pearl White

Black Diamond Pigment: Bora Bora

Eye Candy Pigment: Okinawa Blue

STEP 14: Pour the colors onto the board

Lets begin with pouring the largest color onto the board, which is Okinawa Blue over the handle and the top portion of the board.

Spread the Resin around with your hands or the stir stick and be don’t forget to get the sides and inside the hole on the handle.

Next, pour the second color, which is Bora Bora onto the board. Place the stir stick into the cup and let the color drizzle off the stick onto the board – Don’t blend it yet – that part comes soon!

You can see the the second color drizzled into the middle section of the resin.

Next, pour a little clear resin along the edge of first color onto the board… you can see that in the image above.

Moving along… lets drizzle the Pure Pearl White along the clear resin and near the edge of the resin. The white will represent the sea foam look. Were not trying to create a ton of white bubbles but rather a more marbleize affect that represents the Gulf Coast Ocean.

STEP 15: Apply Heat from the heat gun

Use the Heat Gun to remove all the little bubbles that rise in the resin and use the heat gun to blend the colors. Keep the gun about 6-8 inches away to remove the little bubbles, but when you push the white colors to make them appear like waves than you can get close but only for seconds at a time.

Be careful, you don’t want to burn the resin.

Now that you blended the colors, applied heat, and achieved the look… lets leave the board alone for 12-24 hours, letting the Resin cure. After the resin has cured, flip the board over. You will have to sand away the drips from the resin, I use grit 220 for this step.

STEP 16: Seal the cutting board

When sealing the cutting board be sure to only use food safe products, such as the sealer that I am using, Walrus Oil and Walrus Wax.

Apply the cutting board oil all over the board – front, back, and the sides… you can use your hands to spread it… and apply this step two-three times to achieve a great seal.

After your final coat of oil, let the board sit for 15-20 minutes and wipe off the excess oil and apply the wax. Use about a quarter sized amount of wax to cover the board.

Wait approximately 15 minutes after applying the wax and use a clean dry cloth to hand buff it. You can use an automatic rotary buffer… kinda like buffing a car, but you can easily just use your hands and a cloth.

As the board continues to sit and totally cure, the resin will begin to transform and marbleize… the finish look turns out fantastic!

CONGRATULATIONS… you did it!!! You made your first Ocean Cutting Board. Photo’s below are the result from this tutorial; the board turned out AWESOME!

Also, this Blog was my first EVER blog… I hope you enjoyed it while giving a bunch of information and inspiration. Please leave comments to let me know what you think…


7 Comments on “How to Make | Resin Cutting Board

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